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Sunday, April 7, 2013

The Costumer's Manifesto: The 16th Century Part 5

“This chasuble, the back of which is shown here, is the principal church vestment worn by a priest at the celebration of the Christian Mass. An image of the Crucifixion can be seen with the Virgin and St John at the foot of the Cross and angels holding chalices in which to catch the blood of Christ. The chasuble is made up of the favoured luxury materials of the time, having an embroidered orphrey (the decorative piece attached to the chasuble), which dates from the later part of the 15th century, applied to a sumptuous velvet ground dating to about 1430-1470. The orphrey was probably originally attached to another chasuble and was cut off and re-used here. It is likely that the orphrey, with its very distinctive style of bold images and figures with large heads, was worked in Bohemia. Embroidery was highly regarded in the medieval period in Europe and at its finest matched goldwork and painting.”

cloak ca. 156o-1569
 “A cloak was an essential component of the fashionable ensemble for a 16th-century gentleman. While most were intended as protection against the weather, those made of expensive fabrics such as silk, and richly decorated, were primarily symbols of wealth and social status. Usually worn over the right shoulder, a fine cloak allowed a young ‘gallant’ a dramatic flourish when entering or departing a room.

This example is made of Italian silk with a red pile in a palmate pattern on a voided cream satin ground. It was probably crafted from another garment, possibly a petticoat. The collar, front and hem of the cloak have been decorated with applied yellow satin outlined with silk cords, in a scrolling design of stylised foliage.”

That's the end of The Costumer's Manifesto: The 16 Century.

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